Heated Grip Installation - Page 2 I decided that I wanted the control to be in the instrument panel. I don't like the OEM switch position which is out on the infill panel. It is a long way to reach when you need to adjust the grip temperature. Also, the cable would be in the way when removing the infill panel which, on the Sprint, is any time that you want to remove the side panels. So I mounted the switch in the space below the three trip computer switches. Remove the instrument panel by removing the windshield and then the two clips that hold the panel to the bike. There is also a cable bundle that goes to the panel that is connected under a gray boot. It's pretty easy. The instrument panel comes apart just as easily - 8 screws and it separates from the front bezel.
The Heat-Troller switch can be separated from the LED by snapping the circuit board along the scored line. This gives the LED a couple of inches of freedom allowing more flexible mounting options for both the switch and the LED. The switch is connected to the controller with a multi-conductor cable. It can be mounted just about anywhere in the cockpit with plenty of cable to place the controller just about anyplace else on the bike.
The left image (above) shows the switch and LED boards separated. The LED has one lead insulated so you don't have to worry much about the "legs" getting crossed. The photo on the right snows the switch mounted in the lower part of the panel and the LED hot glued just under the switch holes on the top part of the panel (the panel is upside down in this photo.) I also hot glued the LED board to the panel to prevent it from vibrating. Hot glue is great for this application because it is flexible, waterproof and fast. (Update - after almost 5 years it is still in perfect condition.)
The left photo shows the switch and LED mounted in the panel. The LED is almost invisible. The right photo shows the grommet that comes with the Heat-Troller. The grommet goes under the knob to help seal the switch and give it some extra turning friction to prevent accidental operation.
In the photo above, this is how the panel looks once it is installed and operating. The switch is easy to get to from the riding position and the LED is very easy to see. Now the electrical hook up: The first decision is physically where to put the control box for the Heat-Troller. On the Sprint, the space under the windshield is perfect. There is a lot of room there with almost nothing else in there and it is easy to get to and work in. The controller and the relay that controls power to it will go there, too. Route the wires from the grips up to the space behind the instrument panel. Route three wires down to the OEM heated grip connector (under the left headlight). The OEM connector has three wires leading to it:
Here is the section of the bike's schematic that shows what is in the bike (stock):
The grayed out portions are not important for this project. 60 and 62 are the two "dipped beam" headlights. 52 is the OEM heated grip connector. 50 is the headlight relay. This relay is turned on when the ignition switch (49) is in the "run" position and turned off when the starter is initiated (so the headlights turn off when you are cranking the engine). The fuse box is at far right. The wire colors are "P" for purple, "B" for black and "UR" for Blue/Red. Purple is the power source (fuse #6), Blue/Red is the relay control signal, and Black goes to ground. |
